In Memory of Go Sian Hong. The Longevity of Goodwill

In Memory of Go Sian Hong. The Longevity of Goodwill… The Chinese are known all over the world. It is the world’s oldest continuous civilisation, a race of people with more than four thousand years of recorded history. The Chinese presence in Indonesia is not recent but has merged and melded into a significant part of its history. In Bali specifically, you can see from the era of the Jayapangus Kingdom that a royal marriage is already a historical testament of acculturation between Chinese and Balinese cultures.

As we celebrate the Lunar New Year in 2025, we have an opportunity through a unique story shared by Ketut Siandana. A personal family history that is touched as a consequence of this acculturation. How one of these relationships is so intricately woven, creating ripples and connectivity from the past to the future.

The Story of Wayan Kari, otherwise known as Go Sian Hong

We created this festival to commemorate my father’s childhood. When he was young, he was educated in the Chinese community. At the time, Japanese education was dominant, and tertiary education was not available to most people, only for privileged children of certain families—often Chinese—having access. Indigenous people (Pribumi) were not allowed educational opportunities. My father, however, and his cousin were determined to get an education. It was their good fortune that they were adopted by a Chinese family by the name of Go. By this adoption, they were given Chinese names of Go Sian Li and Go Sian Hong. _{~Ketut Siandana}

For this year’s Imlek, I had discussions with Mangku Kuning. Organising this event requires effort because it’s not part of my traditional roots, but I enjoy it because it brings much positivity. I have support as well, which has helped organise this event again. There’s an enjoyment beyond the event itself. _{~Ketut Siandana}

A New Year, a New Experience

Knowing our love of history and culture, Ketut Siandana invited Sawidji to join the ritual and festivities. Do some form of documentation (as we like) and share our experience. I have lived in Bali for many years, but this is my first time experiencing the Chinese New Year (Imlek) in the heart of Denpasar City. There are two festivals in Gajah Mada Street for the Chinese New Year. This festive revival all began with the intention of commemorating the life of Wayan Kari.

Wayan Kari, a Hindu Balinese who was educated in a Chinese school, was an example of a true cross-cultural immersion. A personal enrichment developed through a unique education. One rooted in respect, discipline and fellowship. As such, the festival that he inspired, ‘Toleransi Imlek’, has a unique emphasis on uniting communities and revitalising cultural relations. Fostering harmony and celebrating diversity. It does not feel like a commercial affair, though it lays the groundwork for revitalising a healthier economy in the Heritage area of Denpasar.

Jalan Gajah Mada, Heritage Denpasar

I share impressions of Jalan Gajah Mada, in this Heritage area of Denpasar, as I walk along its well-trodden lanes and alleyways. I know it is a central location of the Chinese community here in Bali. This monumental street is dressed and ready for the festivities of the Lunar Celebrations. The red lanterns above irrevocably change the atmosphere into a fiery and festive one.

The firecrackers explode in your eardrums with a pressure that takes you to the border of pain. The smoke-like mist from the gunpowder hazing the streets that are usually heavy with traffic is now silenced of cars but exploding with drums and cymbals. Dancing Dragons, Barongsais and Deities on honoured palanquins coursing through the heart of the city in a blaze of red and gold.

This is Gajah Mada Street, in the heart of Denpasar city as the moon begins a new cycle and marks a new year in the sinewy lines of the Serpent.

Puri Agung Jro Kuta and the Altar of Ratu Syahbandar

The ritual begins in Puri  Agung Jro Kuta (equivalent to one of the prominent royal houses of Bali). There is an altar here that is usually found in ports. Also found at Besakih Temple. Speculation has it that it originated as the Chinese communities often travelled through ports for trade. That is why it is explained that the nature of the Altar of Ratu Syahbandar is similar to that of Pura Melanting.

To a Temple in the City

The procession steps outside of Jro Kuta and through the streets of the city, accompanied by the drums and cymbals. In an impressive flood of red and acrobatics of the Naga and the Barongsais. As photographers documenting the event, we headed first to the next location so that we could capture the entrance of the procession.

The city lane is already busy, and the atmosphere brimming with camaraderie. This is very heartfelt and is moving for me. We are not strangers to estrangement in today’s pace of living. Social distancing even with the closest neighbours requires no real reason, apart from being busy. In this situation, I know how busy everybody involved in this is. How demanding their lives are, with obligations to family, community and God. And here they are, Balinese from all different villages, honouring and celebrating the ritual in fellowship.

About Sing Bie Temple

Now, in this area stands the Sing Bie Temple. Although its location is somewhat hidden, this temple serves as evidence of the strong cultural fusion between Bali and the Chinese community in the Gajah Mada area of Denpasar. In addition to worshipping the gods of Confucian belief, this temple is also frequently visited by Hindu worshippers in Bali. Within the temple complex, there is also a shrine dedicated to the reverence of Ratu Mas Syahbandar, Bhatara Segara, and Ratu Gede Nusa.

The Spirit of the Pallbearers

The pallbearers are Balinese, as immersed in this moment and reverberating with enthusiasm and spirit. When I spoke with a few familiar faces about their impressions and thoughts of the day, they shared these words:

Encircling Catur Muka

The procession continues to ask for blessing in front of Pura Puseh. With a lighting of fireworks as we enter Gajah Mda Street and head towards Catur Muka. There, the Sacred Palanquin is carried by the pallbearers around the Catur Muka (point 0 of Denpasar) and then continues to Pasar Badung Melanting.

In the courtyard of Pasar Badung Pura Melanting, a series of performances of both Chinese and Balinese traditions invite all the public to enjoy. The children enjoy the Lion Dance and acrobatics, and the rich colours and beauty of both cultures are made an offering for the whole community.

ManButur shares his impressions of the festival. Affirming the statement from Jro Gede Kuning, relating to the true aculturation of this temple with Balinese culture.

Another unique point about Sing Bie Temple is that there are traditional Balinese sacred masks. This I have never witnessed in any other Chinese temples here in Bali. Another aspect that becomes a point of interest is the beginning of this festival, How this festival came to be, a festival that commemorates specific rituals, began from the initiative of a Hindu Balinese._{~Manbutur Suantara}

You can see the difference between these festivities and the proceeding festival that continues on Gajah Mada Sreet organised by different organisations. There is something personal and unexpected in this particular story.

This festival has an emphasis on cultural rituals, both Balinese and Chinese. This did not have the same trademarks as a commercial festival. Not so many vendors sell goods, whether there is food or toys. There were 2025 nasi bungkus prepared and given out for free to everyone who wanted it. 2025 servings, according to the year. Last year, they prepared 2024 servings. A new tradition.”_{~Manbutur Suantara}

In Memory of Go Sian Hong. The Longevity of Goodwill

In honouring the memory of his father Wayan Kari (Go Sian Hong), Ketut Siandana, together with his brother Made Sutarjana, initiated the Tolerance Imlek Festival in Gajah Mada Street five years ago. It is a remarkable story with insights into our specific cultural amalgamation. Often in Indonesia, discussions on cultural integrations are touched by aspects of our history of colonisation and war that impacted ethnic tensions.

However, in this instance, Ketut Siandana’s cherishing of his father’s memory tells a very different story. One that bonds different cultures even stronger in friendship. Commemorating a life gifted and lived fully in a peaceful spirit is still a regenerative force. With lasting effects. A testament of the longevity of goodwill.

On behalf of the whole Sawidji Team would like to say a special thank you to Ketut Siandana, Made Sutarjana, Jro Mangku Gede Kuning, and the whole community who welcomed us to join and celebrate the ritual and festival of Imlek 2025. May the new year ahead be full of peace, health and prosperity.

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