Architecture of Spirit

Estimated reading time: 14 minutes

Architecture of Spirit…The significance of the Pura (Temple) in Balinese identity and cultural practice are words that are far from sufficient to illustrate the connection between individual, community and a structure made of stone and bricks. Can it simply be a set of materials, with a set of theories passed down from generation to generation, that moves this many people?

The project for Pura Luhur Pucak Sari Bukit Cemeng shares the story of the rebuilding of one such temple in Bali through the perspectives and accounts of those involved. Often in history books and academic records, we learn the theoretical facts and understand the importance of the information, but the first hand experiences, of how it is felt and what it means to individuals. How they as individual human beings, in their respective parts, experience this reality. How does this translate to the human psyche, heart and actions?

This is what is missing in our anthropological evidence. When historians look at the relics of ages past, they try to piece together and try to understand how the people think in that time. It is for this very reason that we are sharing this part of the story. In this article, the experience of the architect called upon to assist in the restoration of a Temple.

The Spirit Calls on the Architect

Several months ago, architect Ketut Siandana introduced us to a project that is very meaningful to him. In his journey, as an architect who seemed to be at a crossroads. Having achieved many hallmarks of commercial success, there was a feeling of perhaps stagnancy. One which I described as ‘ennui’. A certain apathy with his endeavours. To the point that he thought he may wish to leave architecture altogether. 

It was around this time that he was approached by some community members asking for his help to assist in the restoration of a temple. This would categorically be a social project. One that would be quite large in scale and perhaps due to many factors, would not be so easy to achieve. Pura Luhur Pucak Sari Bukit Cemeng has a complex story, and Ketut Siandana was thrown right in the middle of it. However, this Temple has personal significance for him. Memories of childhood visits with the family and its ties to his village of origin.

We were introduced to the community members who were involved in mobilising this restoration. And through several months, we were blessed to be able to be a small part of this story, simply by being a witness to this experience. One that touched so many, but one that is palpable and can be felt. To anyone whose senses are open to each other.

A Daunting Proposal

The restoration of this Temple would require a large sum of money. One that the responsible communities are daunted and unsure about. The nature of the restoration due to its location (on a mountain hill with no road access) would require considerable manual labour component with high risks to injury and safety. In addition to the logistics, there were ceremonial rituals. Also, of considerable preparation and considerable expenses. All of these considerations are what made this project seem near impossible and difficult to complete despite a few attempts.

Pura Luhur Pucak Sari Bukit Cemeng Before Restoration

It seems that it makes absolute sense that we are writing about the architectural design of a temple when in collaboration with an architect. We were invited to document this story by way of a book. Whilst getting acquainted with the history, we listened to everyone’s accounts and visited the Temple together. Sitting over many coffees and sharing stories, in the end, I did not write that much about architecture. Of course, that was part of it. But instead, it became clear to us that the success behind this is no one individual. Not one particular leader. There were so many moving parts that were called upon and moved by a force greater than any one person. It is when the Spirit orchestrates something of far greater design, making a structure more than stone and mortar.

Overcoming Challenges

Despite the incredulity, funds were raised, from unexpected and sometimes anonymous sources, surpassing the amount needed. Even though there was a shortage of materials, it was somehow managed, and there was an excess of materials. Despite the distance of community members and the heavy demand for labour, the whole community were committed and inspired to go above and beyond in giving their time, labour and efforts in working together through a system of gotong royong, all to see this Sacred Site restored.

The Spirit and the Architect. An interview with Ketut Siandana

How do you feel about this work? The finished work?

When I was 55, I didn’t want to take on any more architectural work. So, I asked myself, “What else can I do?” That’s when I hoped I could steer my work in a different direction.

Then, I was called to assist with the restoration of a temple. It was a new challenge, though stressful. But even through the stress, if you’re someone who enjoys finding solutions, it enriches you. It raises your awareness and understanding and gives you wisdom about the universe, nature, and our connection to it. We gain benefits beyond just numbers.

When it’s a design for a client, the client is the judge. Who judges a design for a temple?

It’s a broad wisdom. If we’re architects with artistic freedom or individual egos, we have the sulinggih, the books, the community, the committee, and the pengempon pura. It’s like handling a lot of horses, each wanting to go in different directions. How do we, as architects, deal with that, knowing the horses will keep going their own way?

How will this temple fulfil the needs of so many?

Aside from the people who will benefit from it, perhaps after time passes and we see the effects, that’s when I’ll feel the true satisfaction and gratitude for the finished work. Each part of the project has its creativity, and many workers have different needs. It’s not like a commercial project where we have full control and can say, “This can’t be done, that can’t be changed.”

Another responsibility is that sometimes people expect us to help find the funds. It’s not an easy task. We need to reassure the community, even when we have doubts ourselves. But we must affirm many. I find the answers when I listen to Ratu Peranda.

Social and Economical Challenges

In the past, it wasn’t about money—it was measured in materials. But now, the material is gone, its all accountable through financial analysis.

I once asked the village committee, and the format was like meeting a commercial client. The questions were standard, and their answers were surprising. They explained it had been decades since the temple was renovated. The committee was worried about whether they had the capacity and funds to finish the project. But since the temple is tied to our family, the will and courage had to be there to take it on. We had to be convinced we could see it through. We had to feel it from nature. I felt I had to make this project plan as complete as possible. I went to the location with the surveyor and asked nature’s blessing to undertake and complete this project.

What happened next?

The next step was communicating the plan to the community. We invited all stakeholders—the villagers, committees, prejuru (community leaders), pengempon, pemangku (priests), etc. When the concept and maquette were presented, there was hesitation. There was conflict in the community, with social and political factors at play. Despite this, we had to move forward—we couldn’t step back.

Building progressed slowly, step by step. The first part was the utama mandala (the most sacred zone, with its shrines), which went well, even though many complained that it wasn’t completed all at once. That became a challenge for the next phase. There were still many who were not in agreement. Suspicion between committees was part of the usual social-political dynamic. Cost is the primary trigger. Then, the COVID-19 pandemic hit, and everything stopped. But one person wanted to continue the project, which surprised me. How could we keep going with the economic situation? Why continue? They had the idea to just do a small step. Just build a shower and bathroom, so when people climbed to the top they would have a place to refresh.  Providing facilities for the workers. I thought if it just that, we can manage.

What happened during the building of the washing facilities?

Though more challenges arose. We had to prove we could finish. Something happened we didn’t expect. Everyone was at home because of the COVID-19 pandemic isolation and had very little employment. The negativity seemed to go away. They were inspired to help with the temple project because they were at a low point.

Social media helped spread the word, and more people started participating. Materials started coming in, and many people helped, making it possible to continue, even without the funds to complete it.

Has your boredom been resolved?

Yes. At first, I didn’t know if this work would make me happy, but after seeing the results, the satisfaction is far greater than what I get from commercial projects.

When Spirit Builds, The People’s Journey. Book Coming Soon

_{Note: All images provided in this article are provided by Sawidji Studio and Sian D Sain}.